Road Trip to Lahul-Spiti -
A journey into the high Himalayas...
(Sangla-Chitkul-Kalpa-Nako-Tabo-Kaza-Keylong-Manali)
We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. Twenty years from now we will be more disappointed by the things we didn’t do than by the ones we did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor and catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore…Dream…Discover…
After exploring Ladakh, Spiti Valley was the first place in the list in terms of adventure and beauty.
The Sangla-Spiti-Kaza- Tabo- Kunzum circuit (route) is no Childs play. This is one of the most difficult terrains and one of my peak experiences. Visitors to this place must brave rough road crossing and should be accustomed to heights/ hill expeditions. People who are inclined to get travel sick and have love for luxury and comfort, this is definitely not a right place to go on a holiday. The harsh climate, lack of amenities and tedious journeys makes it one of the most difficult but virgin destinations.
Average Altitude- 7234 Feet. (2,205 Meters)
Average Altitude- 7103 Feet (2165 meters)
Woke at 7.00 hours and especially walked uphill’s to see the sunrise but it was as usual as I see it in Shimla or any other hill station.Came back to the hotel and had tea in the garden. Left Sarhaan at 10.00 hours and Came down to Jeori to be on NH 22 and we were on our way to Sangla. 6 Kms from Jeori, from Badhal, Kinnaur district starts.
As we came and settled at our camp site,It had started drizzling and the temperature came down. We all were happy to enjoy the beautiful weather after the searing heat of the plains. We went to the local market for having our lunch. We found a fast food corner recommended by our camp manager. Had mutton Momos and bread omelet with the most wonderful tea (as per Gurmehar)
Had an hour’s nap and refreshed to go and rece the country site. We went to see Banjara Camp as I heard a lot about it but due to extremely high price I had not booked that for my stay. I went to see why the place is so overpriced. Well to be honest the property is very good, the camp is at the river banks but we found it very commercial and full of snooty staff.
Went to see another camp site (Kinner Camps). I was negotiating with them while planning my trip but couldn’t make it. The camp site is good and the Manager Mr. Vijay Negi was very humble and nice. We thought of staying here the next day.
By now the sky was clear and perfect for a session of photography.
Travel Time- 1 Hour
At 10.00 hours we headed for Chitkul, 26 Kms from Sangla valley. Travel along the bank of blue Baspa to reach the last village before the Tibet border Chitkul. On the way we crossed the beautiful village Rakcham.
Mastarang is another wonderful valley surrounded by beautiful mountains came on our way, just 6 km before Chitkul. On the way there were nice stretches for picnics and photography. Tibet border is only 30 kms. from Chitkul.
The sky was so clear and full of stars but unfortunately we forgot to carry our telescopes. Hospitality and the food of the camp site were excellent. I highly recommend this place (Kinner Camps). It was time for Nature songs now slept hearing songs of the Insects.
We started at 10.30 hours from Sangla after having delicious Puri Bhaaji . The road was same till Karcham but this time the deep down valley was at my side. Clicked some videos of the roads and this is one of the dangerous roads we experienced.
Reached Rekongpio after one and a half hour. Rekongpio is a district town of Kinnaur. Our fingers were crossed as we saw the fuel station and what a relief to know that the fuel is available . Filled our fuel tanks and headed for Kapla.
One night halt is enough at Kalpa but we were booked for two days so thought of relaxing. I was planning to go for a trekking first but give up after hearing the distance. You have to climb up for 4 hours and 3 hours to come down.
In the afternoon we went to explore another village called Pangi, just had glimpse of the village and went to Rikangpio to buy Sunscreen. We been looking for some good outlets to have lunch but couldn’t find any. Returned to the hotel and had excellent lunch. In the evening I and Gurmehar went for a long walk to a place called Ban Bihar. There was a lovely Waterfall out there and we climbed up to the forest. Came down when it was about to get dark. In the evening you can hear the soft sounds of music from the Gompa. It’s really nice and gives you a soothing feeling.In the evening there were countless stars and we enjoyed the time while watching them.
Travel Time - 4-5 Hours.
Total Kms.-110 Kms.
No phone network works in this village except BSNL but that also works if there is electricity available and electricity comes to this village in the evening and morning for few hours. Most of the houses and guest house are using solar lights.
One our way we crossed the starting point to Pin Valley. We missed going to pin valley too as this was closed due to floods in Pin River.
Reached Kaza at 16.00 hours and we were trying to connect and find similarities between Leh and Kaza. Same roads, same altitude but Leh is much bigger. The scenic beauty is amazing here.
After having a cup of tea we walked up the city and seen a monastery and local market.
Had an excellent time in the evening followed by a candle light dinner.
Today we explored two important destinations- Ki Monastery and Kibber village.
Kibber Village, comprising of 80 houses, is located at a distance of 16 km from Kaza at a height of 14,200 feet above sea level. The architecture of the houses and fortified look of the village are worth seeing. Houses are made of stones and adobe bricks. Kibber stands apart from the entire Spiti Valley as it boasts of fertile fields and produces sufficient amounts even for trading. Barley and peas are the main crops. The economy of the village is based mainly on trade with Ladakh. The trade with Ladakh is based on barter system with Kibber locals often trading horses or yaks. The Purang La or Purang Pass is the main trade route.
Spiti remains snowbound during winter and temperature falls to sub-zero levels. Climatic condition compels villagers to mostly stay within their houses. Villager’s stock food to last the winter and utilize the time while to knit clothes and make handcraft items. Though remote, Kibber has all the basic amenities like electricity, civil dispensary, school, post office, etc.
Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary is also located close to the village. It is home to the Ibex, blue sheep, red fox, Tibetan woolly hare, Himalayan Wolf, lynx, pika, Tibetan wild ass and snow leopard. It is the only sanctuary in India that is situated in a cold desert area. I missed the chance to visit this.
Kibber village is popular among adventure lovers too. Trekking and mountaineering are the main adventure activities. Dandmachan Peak is popular with trekkers and mountaineers. Kibber is also a photographer’s delight. The barren landscape, rivers and mountains and gompas provide excellent opportunities to experiment with their camera skills. I enjoyed clicking pictures and was actually feeling like I am taking a walk in the clouds.
We planned to go to the local market to collect some souvenirs but we got to know that it’s closed on Sundays.I got some free time to copy all pictures and to write my blog.
We knew that next day was going to be more tuff and thrilling as we had to cross Kunzum Pass. Whoever has visited this place till date have their own views about the condition of the roads. Some find it tough, some find it adventure and for some it’s a never ending road …Excited for tomorrow!!!
From Kaza we started early at 6.30 hours in the morning for Keylong. Keylong is the district town of Lahul, 187 Km from Kaza. We reached Losar after crossing many small villages like Hal and many more. We had breakfast at Lasor and headed for a long journey.
After 45 minutes we reached Kunzum Top. We were happy to be there but slightly disappointed if you compare Baralachala and Tang-lang-la. Gurmehar was very disappointed to see the amount of snow.
Goddess Kunjum (Durga/Parvati) resides in a temple on the Kunzum top and keeps guard over the pass and wards of the evil. We took a round around the temples to seek blessings for the safe journey.
All phone networks were working by now and there was a flood of mails on my blackberry. I hate this part of the vacation when you have to go back after having such a great time and from extreme cold to extreme hot .
After stopping at some exotic places on the way we reached Rohtang pass at 12.30 hours. It started raining by now and the road was not at all visible due to clouds.
Manali is one of my favourite place but I hate it in summer season. Roads were packed and it was so difficult to reach the hotel. The average time to keylong to Manali is 2 hours but it took us 6 hours to reach our hotel.
Summer vacations 16th June-28th June 2012
After exploring Ladakh, Spiti Valley was the first place in the list in terms of adventure and beauty.
The Sangla-Spiti-Kaza- Tabo- Kunzum circuit (route) is no Childs play. This is one of the most difficult terrains and one of my peak experiences. Visitors to this place must brave rough road crossing and should be accustomed to heights/ hill expeditions. People who are inclined to get travel sick and have love for luxury and comfort, this is definitely not a right place to go on a holiday. The harsh climate, lack of amenities and tedious journeys makes it one of the most difficult but virgin destinations.
When you take the road out from Shimla towards Sangla, you have actually taken a big leap…
But, for those who wants to tread the bizarre and infamous, then this is the place to be. Undoubtedly all along you would find the view to be spectacular. With the famous Kinnar-kailash range and the River Beas accompanying all the way, this is bound to be a special experience of the Himalayas. The locale upto the Sangla and Chitkul is quite green, but as one crosses this and approaches Spiti valley the terrains quietly turn rugged until when finally one reaches Kaza, we find no vegetation whatsoever.
This circuit is also popular for the high altitude trekking routes, the monasteries at Kaza and Tabo, the sacred Bhimakali temple at Sarhaan and Kunjum La the highest point of the journey, en-route to Manali the bride of the hills, welcomes you to a cozy end to this daring tour.
Like last time this trip also induced lot of excitement in all of us starting with the same sequence to collect stuff- food, Jerry cans, servicing of car and luggage to be carried in different bags according to the usability/ requirement. My personal tip on the non essentials to pack for a trip to such places is items like cuppa noodles, tea bags, blankets etc. These items are available everywhere nowadays.
Day-1 -16th June- Chandigarh-Shimla
Travel Time-3-4 Hours.
Total Distance- 100 Kms.Average Altitude- 7234 Feet. (2,205 Meters)
The work pressure was high and after handing over my long list of work I left my office at 1800 hours, reached home loaded the car till the brim again and started from Chandigarh at 20.00 hours. Since Shimla is my birth place and we explored NH 22 many times, it was just like a normal drive till Shimla. We reached home at 23.15 hours. Had homemade food made by my mom and slept at around 12.30 hours.
Day-2 - 17th June 2012 -Shimla- Sarhaan
Travel Time- 6-7 Hours
Total Distance- 100 Kms.Average Altitude- 7103 Feet (2165 meters)
Bunty was not able to sleep as the temperature was very high in Shimla and unfortunately there was no fans. He managed to sleep for couple of hours in the morning.
We left Shimla at 10.00 hours. NH 22 was in a great shape and we were so happy to see carpeted roads. We crossed Kufri, Fugu, Narakanda and Rampur. There is a transportation strike going on in the entire Himachal and Fuel Pumps were dead. Our Car tank was full but still 20 liters to carry in Jerry Cans. Worry!!!!
We reached Rampur by lunch time and stopped at a restaurant to have lunch. It was very much hot so chose the restaurant where the AC was working.
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| Road to Sarahan |
From Rampur 23 Kms is Jeori, from here we took the left turn from NH 22 and drove up in a road to Sarahan, 17 kms from here. At an altitude of 2165 Meters the main attraction of Saharan is Bhimkali temple. It is a three storey temple. Architecture is more like a Pagoda. The mixture of Hindu and Buddhist art has made this temple a unique piece of art. In the top floor there is an idol of Bhimkalidevi. Just beside the temple you can see the palace of Bushahar kings.
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| Bhimakali Temple |
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| Bhimakali Tample |
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| Evening View of Bhimakali Temple |
Gurmehar and I walked about 1/2 Km up from the temple to reach Sarahan Bird Sanctuary, a famous spot, known nationally and internationally. It is a breeding centre for two beautiful Himalayan birds, Monal and Tragopan. But unfortunately it was closed since it was breeding season. From this sanctuary we had nice glimpse of the most beautiful peaks Srikhand Mahadev, and Gisu Pisu. Being on the hill top we also had a bird’s eye view of Sarahan.
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| Top view from Sarahan |
HTDC Hotel Sree Khand is the best place to stay in Sarhaan. It has an excellent view and the staff is very supporting. I highly recommend this hotel.
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| Hotel Sreekhand |
Day-3- 18th June 2012- Sarahan to Sangla.
Travel Time- 4-5 Hours
Travel Time- 4-5 Hours
Total Kms. - 94 Kms.
Average Altitude- 8792 Feet (2680 Meters)
Woke at 7.00 hours and especially walked uphill’s to see the sunrise but it was as usual as I see it in Shimla or any other hill station.Came back to the hotel and had tea in the garden. Left Sarhaan at 10.00 hours and Came down to Jeori to be on NH 22 and we were on our way to Sangla. 6 Kms from Jeori, from Badhal, Kinnaur district starts.
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| Roads of Kinnaur |
Actually this was the place from where thrill & adventure started…
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| Gateway to Kinnaur |
Shatadru river was on my left and was ravaging. After a while of driving you will see the breath taking view of Kinnar Kailash Peak.
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| Kinnar Kailash |
The road from Tapri to Karcham is not so good, but the scenic beauty of the road is so awesome that it will make you forget all the difficulties you faced during the road trip. Karcham is the meeting place (Sangam) of shatadru and Baspa river. There is a huge hydro electric power plant is running there. Leave NH 22 from here to a road on your right and drive 18 kms to reach Sangla.
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| karcham Dam |
The most dangerous road I have ever experienced in this trip till now. Single road and absolutely blind curves only one car can pass. Since last two days this thrill was enough for all of us.
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| Road to Sangla |
Reached Sangla at 14.00 hours. It is a wonderful valley at 2680 Meters at the bank of Baspa river. It is 94 kms from Sarahan and 232 kms from Shimla.
As we came and settled at our camp site,It had started drizzling and the temperature came down. We all were happy to enjoy the beautiful weather after the searing heat of the plains. We went to the local market for having our lunch. We found a fast food corner recommended by our camp manager. Had mutton Momos and bread omelet with the most wonderful tea (as per Gurmehar)
Had an hour’s nap and refreshed to go and rece the country site. We went to see Banjara Camp as I heard a lot about it but due to extremely high price I had not booked that for my stay. I went to see why the place is so overpriced. Well to be honest the property is very good, the camp is at the river banks but we found it very commercial and full of snooty staff.
Went to see another camp site (Kinner Camps). I was negotiating with them while planning my trip but couldn’t make it. The camp site is good and the Manager Mr. Vijay Negi was very humble and nice. We thought of staying here the next day.
By now the sky was clear and perfect for a session of photography.
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| Sangla valley |
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| Camp Site |
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| Evening View of Sangla |
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| Sangla |
Finally came back to our camp site. (Igloo Nature camp) at 20.00 hours and had a real nice time chatting with each other. Had good chicken in dinner. It was cold by now and we tucked ourselves in the cozy quilts.
Day-4 -19th June, 2012-Sangla to Chitkul.
Travel Time- 1 Hour
Total Kms. - 26 Kms.
Average Altitude- 11318 Feet (3450 Meters)
At 10.00 hours we headed for Chitkul, 26 Kms from Sangla valley. Travel along the bank of blue Baspa to reach the last village before the Tibet border Chitkul. On the way we crossed the beautiful village Rakcham.
Mastarang is another wonderful valley surrounded by beautiful mountains came on our way, just 6 km before Chitkul. On the way there were nice stretches for picnics and photography. Tibet border is only 30 kms. from Chitkul.
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| Beautiful Spot Near Mastarang |
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| Road to Chitkul |
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| Clear Sky |
From Chitkul, 3460 meters, you can see the gorgeous peaks all around. We went down the river side and sat there for an hour. The wind was blowing and mountains were just a touch away. I wish I could have trekked up for few hours. Reached our camp site at 14.00 hours and had excellent vegetarian lunch.
Our camp (Kinner Camp) was very beautiful and cozy. Spend the entire afternoon at the camp site by sitting in open air and admiring the nature. In the evening Gurmehar and I went down to the river side and experienced the narrow roads.
It was drizzling and everything was green. Black and whites clouds were dancing over our head. We have seen tons of pretty flowers of purple, white and yellow colors.
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| Amazing flowers |
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| Kinnar Camps |
Like an old saying “One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” This is what we loved to see on this isolated river side walk! Lots of unbelievable voices of insects, verity of grass, shadows of sun shades and sound of Wild River blowing down. We collected some beautiful collection of different shapes of leaves. It was really very hard for Gurmehar to climb up.
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| Evening View - Sangla |
By now it was evening time and we climbed up to the camp site and had tea and Pakoras.
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| Kinnar Camp |
Gurmehar played the guitar while enjoying the cool breeze. Normally every kind of music is soothing to my ears but at that point of time whatever Gurmehar was playing was more than soothing. By now Bunty’s Sherlock homes was finished and we started playing dumb charades. This is one game which gets you close to your imagination. Gurmehar loves to play this game with us. It was a very nice session solving some complicated movies. Thanks to Bunty who suggested the most unbelievable movie to solve (Dr. Kotnis ki Amar Kahani). I never heard about this.
The sky was so clear and full of stars but unfortunately we forgot to carry our telescopes. Hospitality and the food of the camp site were excellent. I highly recommend this place (Kinner Camps). It was time for Nature songs now slept hearing songs of the Insects.
Day-5, 20th June 2012.-Sangla to Kalpa.
Travel Time- 3 Hours.
Total Kms. - 51 Kms.
Total Kms. - 51 Kms.
Average Altitude- 9711 Feet (2960 Meters)
After enjoying the Sangla Valley, our next destination was Kalpa, another famous and beautiful place. It is 51 Kms. drive from Sangla from Karcham point to Puari on NH 22 and then leaving the highway drive up on you left to reach Kalpa via Rekongpio.
We started at 10.30 hours from Sangla after having delicious Puri Bhaaji . The road was same till Karcham but this time the deep down valley was at my side. Clicked some videos of the roads and this is one of the dangerous roads we experienced.
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| Sangla to Kalpa |
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| Sangla to Kalpa |
After Karcham the road was bad and the Bapsa River was flowing on our side. We were very unhappy to see the cemented colour of the river. Due to the bad roads it took us 3 hours to cover 51 kms.
Reached Rekongpio after one and a half hour. Rekongpio is a district town of Kinnaur. Our fingers were crossed as we saw the fuel station and what a relief to know that the fuel is available . Filled our fuel tanks and headed for Kapla.
Kalpa is 13 Kms from Rekongpio located at a height of 2,960 meters is blessed with some of the most spectacular and beautiful landscapes. lofty snow peaks, deep gorges, lush green valleys, fast flowing rivers, enchanting mountain lakes, flower bedecked meadows, beautiful temples and monasteries steeped in time. Located at the base of the imposing Kinner Kailash ranges and Shivling peaks which rise upto 20,000 feet, towering above the clouds, kissing the heavens, encircling the area around, Kalpa itself is spread amidst chilgoza forests, apple plantations and the holy deodars and fir. We were already booked in a hotel and I must say the best one in kapla (Kinner kailash- HPTDC Hotel)
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| Hotel Kinnar kailash |
The view from the hotel was very good. From here you can see the Kinnar Kailash Mountains and you can almost touch them. It is so close from here! From anywhere in Kalpa you can see the Kailash and enjoy the changes in its colour throughout the day. As told by locals there is an awesome 79 Ft. Shivlinga made of granite at the base of the mountain. Missed the telescopes again.
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| Kinnar kailash Range |
If you are a tourist and looking for many sightseeing options let me tell you to drop your plan to go to Kalpa. There is no sightseeing, no restaurants and no market in Kapla except two to three small villages. In the evening we went to explore the two nearby villages, Rogi and Chinni Village.
The road to Rogi village, a smaller village near Kalpa can give you a heart attack. You need to close your eyes at times, the drop off the side of the road, to a river a mile below. It’s fairly scary. I was really scared by looking at the deep ravines.
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| Road - Rogi Village |
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| Road-Rogi Village |
After Rogi village we decided to walk to the village located down the slope to the Kalpa village, traditionally called “Chinni village”, the name being a reference to the old Indo – China trade route. The walk to the village was down hill as we roamed around the small lanes and bye lanes in the neat tiny village, the houses reflecting typical Kinnauri style, past the small nondescript gompa (Hu-Bu-Lan-Kar monastery) in the middle of the village. This monastery was founded by Rinchensang-po (950-1055 AD).
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| Chinni Village |
The entire day was relaxed and evening spend by counting stars .
Day 6 - 21st June, 2012-Kapla.
One night halt is enough at Kalpa but we were booked for two days so thought of relaxing. I was planning to go for a trekking first but give up after hearing the distance. You have to climb up for 4 hours and 3 hours to come down.
Got up at 7.00 hours and had tea while admiring the Kinner Kailash. Started reading a book which I bought long back (A monk who sold his Ferrari by Robin Sharma). A very interesting book and I loved reading it with a cup of tea.
In the afternoon we went to explore another village called Pangi, just had glimpse of the village and went to Rikangpio to buy Sunscreen. We been looking for some good outlets to have lunch but couldn’t find any. Returned to the hotel and had excellent lunch. In the evening I and Gurmehar went for a long walk to a place called Ban Bihar. There was a lovely Waterfall out there and we climbed up to the forest. Came down when it was about to get dark. In the evening you can hear the soft sounds of music from the Gompa. It’s really nice and gives you a soothing feeling.In the evening there were countless stars and we enjoyed the time while watching them.
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| Kalpa |
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| Van Vihar-Kalpa |
Day-7-22nd June, 2012 Kalpa- Nako
Travel Time - 4-5 Hours.
Total Kms.-110 Kms.
Average Altitude- 12014 Feet (3662 Meters)
After enjoying the beauty of Kinnar Kailash mountains we headed for a place called NAKO.
We stated at 10.30 hours from Kapla and Nako is 110 Kms. from Kapla towards Kaza. In you are going to Kaza this is the ideal place for a night halt.
After taking a left turn from Rogongpio we are now followed by a Spiti River. Roads were bad but after half an hour’s drive we spotted the most amazing water fall.
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| Kalpa- Nako |
The roads were really tuff and dangerous and after 4 hours we reached Nako.
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| Kalpa-Nako |
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| Kalpa-Nako |
We reached at the Camp site (kinner Camps) at 14.30 hours and were really hungry. There was not even a single Dhaba on the way where you can stop and eat. As always we carried a box full of eatables and munched on the way .Its very important to carry eatables with you in case you are stuck somewhere for longer hours.
The camp site was full and they shifted us to the nearby Guest house. Our guest house was the most prominent. You can see the entire lake and the village from here.
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| View of Nako from Guest House |
Nako is located at a height of 3662 meters. Nako is a beautiful village at one corner of Kinnaur in Hang-rang Valley and the largest village above sea level. After this village Spiti district starts. The most beautiful place to see in Nako is its lake. Shadows of willow and poplar trees play with the shadow of ice top mountains in the lake!
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| Nako Lake |
After taking a short nap we climbed up to the mountain to see the Gompa and from here you can see the entire Village.
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| Nako |
One night stay is really enjoyable at Nako. After climbing up we went down to the lake and walked in the village. Nako village has both old and new structures and a Buddhist monastery is also located beside the lake have some stucco, old idols, murals.
No phone network works in this village except BSNL but that also works if there is electricity available and electricity comes to this village in the evening and morning for few hours. Most of the houses and guest house are using solar lights.
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| Evening at Nako |
Day-8- 23nd June, 2012 -Nako- Kaza.
Travel Time - 4-5 Hours.
Total Kms.-109 Kms.
Average Altitude-
Tabo -10000 Feet (3050 Meters)
Average Altitude-
Kaza- 11980 Feet (3650 Meters)
After having an excellent breakfast we started from Nako at 10.00 hours , initially in our itinerary we had a night halt at Tabo but as advised by everyone we dropped the idea to stay at Tabo.
Today we will reach directly to Kaza. After Nako via Samdho our next destination was Tabo.
There is a challenge near Milange, a Glacier point which flows on the road. Thank god it was just 10.10 hours and the flow of the water was not massive. We managed to cross this point safely.
Tabo is 67 Km from Nako. NH 22 ends and Spiti starts from Samdho. Attractive combination of colors chocolate, red, green and golden of barren mountains will hypnotize you throughout the terrain. Roads were really adventurous and dangerous. We reached Tabo after one and a half hours at 12.00.hours.
Tabo is a monastery Situated at the height of 3050 Meters. Tabo is famous for the Gompha built on 996 AD. Fresco of Tibetian style, beautiful Budhha stucco and paintings on the wall by the natural colours are excellent. Tabo Gompha received the prestigious world heritage title from UNESCO. It is also called as Ajanta of Himalayas.
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| TABO Monastery |
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| TABO Monastery |
We spend good two hours there and after having Lunch we headed for Kaza. While going from Tabo to Kaza, at Sichling, if you travel 7 Km up leaving the main road, you will reach Dhankar Frot. At 3890 Meters height it was the capital of Spiti 500 years ago. When you see the fort from a distance it will look like a big termite nest in the mountain. We dropped the idea to go there. The sun was very sharp and I was so sweaty besides switching on the car AC.
One our way we crossed the starting point to Pin Valley. We missed going to pin valley too as this was closed due to floods in Pin River.
One of the four local units of Spiti is the Pin valley which lies on either side of the Pin River. Geographically, the Pin valley is shut off from the rest of Spiti by high mountains. The only opening has been provided by the Pin River that forces its way through a deep narrow gorge to join the main river Spiti, at Attargu. The Pin valley is famous for its internationally recognized Chaumurti horses that are bred and sold for considerable sums in Rampur-Bushahar during Lavi fair and in Ladakh.
Reached Kaza at 16.00 hours and we were trying to connect and find similarities between Leh and Kaza. Same roads, same altitude but Leh is much bigger. The scenic beauty is amazing here.
Kaza is a district town in Spiti subdivision. This small and beautiful town is divided in two parts. In the lower part, city dwellers live. On the upper part there are Govt. Offices, bus terminus, hotels and lodges. World's highest Petrol station is in Kaza.
After having a cup of tea we walked up the city and seen a monastery and local market.
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| Evening View -Kaza |
There was a major repair work of electricity going on and there was no electricity in Kaza. We managed to charge our laptops and phone batteries in shifts. No phone network except BSNL.
Had an excellent time in the evening followed by a candle light dinner.
Day-9, 24th June, 2012-
Kaza-Kibber/Ki Monastery.
Kaza-Kibber/Ki Monastery.
Travel Time - 1 Hour.
Total Kms - 30 Kms.
Average Altitude- 11980 Feet (3650 Meters)
Rolling along the next morning, we got up early and started for the day thinking it was a working day but it was actually a Sunday. We took shower and got ready for the day. I looked out of the window and could tell from the blue cloudy sky that it is going to be another cold day. We were unable to eat properly and go for walk due to the high altitude but the place was so beautiful that it was worth visiting. As our holidays were coming to an end, we were so blasè about it that it didn’t feel real.
Today we explored two important destinations- Ki Monastery and Kibber village.
Kibber, in Spiti Valley in Himachal Pradesh, has the distinction of being the highest motorable village in the world. The village is known for its scenic mountains, barren splendor. The landscape of Kibber and the entire Spiti Valley resembles that of Ladakh.
Kibber Village, comprising of 80 houses, is located at a distance of 16 km from Kaza at a height of 14,200 feet above sea level. The architecture of the houses and fortified look of the village are worth seeing. Houses are made of stones and adobe bricks. Kibber stands apart from the entire Spiti Valley as it boasts of fertile fields and produces sufficient amounts even for trading. Barley and peas are the main crops. The economy of the village is based mainly on trade with Ladakh. The trade with Ladakh is based on barter system with Kibber locals often trading horses or yaks. The Purang La or Purang Pass is the main trade route.
Spiti remains snowbound during winter and temperature falls to sub-zero levels. Climatic condition compels villagers to mostly stay within their houses. Villager’s stock food to last the winter and utilize the time while to knit clothes and make handcraft items. Though remote, Kibber has all the basic amenities like electricity, civil dispensary, school, post office, etc.
Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary is also located close to the village. It is home to the Ibex, blue sheep, red fox, Tibetan woolly hare, Himalayan Wolf, lynx, pika, Tibetan wild ass and snow leopard. It is the only sanctuary in India that is situated in a cold desert area. I missed the chance to visit this.
I have never seen such a clear sky with snow white clouds. Astonishingly beautiful. The high altitude and pollution free atmosphere is a boon for sky gazers. I really wanted to stay a night here lying down and watch the night sky I am sure this must be one of the amazing experience. The stars and the constellations seem very close and can be seen clearly even with the naked eye.
Kibber village is popular among adventure lovers too. Trekking and mountaineering are the main adventure activities. Dandmachan Peak is popular with trekkers and mountaineers. Kibber is also a photographer’s delight. The barren landscape, rivers and mountains and gompas provide excellent opportunities to experiment with their camera skills. I enjoyed clicking pictures and was actually feeling like I am taking a walk in the clouds.
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| Road to Kibber |
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| Kibber Village |
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| Kibber Village |
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| Kibber Village |
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| Kibber Village |
On our way back we visited Ki Monastery, the most important Buddhist centre in Spiti Valley, is located close to Kibber. The monastery is famous for its murals, thankas, rare manuscripts, stucco images and wind instruments. Serkang Rimpochhe of Tabo founded the Ki Monastery. According to local legend when the mortal remains of the Lama were being cremated, a water source burst from the earth. In August, 2000 Dalai Lama performed Kalchakara ceremony which was attended by devotees and lamas from across the world.This is just 12 Km away from Kaza situated at a height of 4116 Meters it looks like a bee hive on the mountain.
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| Ki Monastery |
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| Ki Monastery |
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| Ki Monastery |
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| Ki Monastery |
Lamas were nice and took us to show the entire Gompa. We had spent an hour here. On our way back we stopped at river side before heading to our hotel. It was lunch time and we had Rajma Chawal after many days. I specially told the hotel guy to make that for us.
We planned to go to the local market to collect some souvenirs but we got to know that it’s closed on Sundays.I got some free time to copy all pictures and to write my blog.
We knew that next day was going to be more tuff and thrilling as we had to cross Kunzum Pass. Whoever has visited this place till date have their own views about the condition of the roads. Some find it tough, some find it adventure and for some it’s a never ending road …Excited for tomorrow!!!
Day-10- 25th June, 2012, Kaza to Keylong
Travel Time – 8-9 Hour.
Total Kms - 187 Kms.
Average Altitude- 14931 Feet
From Kaza we started early at 6.30 hours in the morning for Keylong. Keylong is the district town of Lahul, 187 Km from Kaza. We reached Losar after crossing many small villages like Hal and many more. We had breakfast at Lasor and headed for a long journey.
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| Near Losar |
Losar is the last village after Kaza. Kunzum top is 22 Kms. from here and 78 kms. From Kaza. We were really exciting to cross Kunzum Top (especially Gurmehar).
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| Road to Kunzum Top |
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| Losar |
Kunzum pass is the highest point in Spiti and world's second highest road at 4551 meters. It serves as an entrance pass to the Spiti valley from Lahaul. Chandratal Lake is 7 km from Kunzum Pass.
After 45 minutes we reached Kunzum Top. We were happy to be there but slightly disappointed if you compare Baralachala and Tang-lang-la. Gurmehar was very disappointed to see the amount of snow.
Goddess Kunjum (Durga/Parvati) resides in a temple on the Kunzum top and keeps guard over the pass and wards of the evil. We took a round around the temples to seek blessings for the safe journey.
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| Kunzum Top |
After crossing Kunzum Top the actual thrill starts. If you compare this terrain with Manali to Leh, this is very dangerous in terms of bad roads, isolated tracks, melting glaciers and river bed roads. No humans, no vegetation, no army camps, no B.R.O. no Dhabas and NO HELP in case you are trapped.
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| Roads - Kunzum-Keylong |
Crossing the massive waterfalls which were flowing over the roads, was so scary yet so thrilling. We crossed almost 20 falls like that.
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| Roads - Kunzum-Keylong |
Throughout the journey, along with adventure, beautiful landscapes will keep you mesmerized. The next spot after Kunjum pass is Chotadhara and Chatru. We stopped at Chatru at 12.00 hours and had tea. The weather was cloudy and it was just about to rain. Glacier point and a landslide point till Gramfu will keep you alive and you will enjoy every bit of it.
Gramfu is 17 kms from here and Keylong is 68 kms. We started our journey with our fingers crossed. Now we had to cross a river like road and the trucks were stuck at the Landslide point.They kept trying to cross but all in vain after 20 mins. of try they have given a side to cars to go ahead. It was a challenge to cross that spot but we did it…yipeeeeeeeeeee… :)
Gramfu is 17 kms from here and Keylong is 68 kms. We started our journey with our fingers crossed. Now we had to cross a river like road and the trucks were stuck at the Landslide point.They kept trying to cross but all in vain after 20 mins. of try they have given a side to cars to go ahead. It was a challenge to cross that spot but we did it…yipeeeeeeeeeee… :)
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| Waterfalls on the way |
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| Waterfalls on the way |
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| Waterfalls on the way |
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| Roads |
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| Waterfalls on the way |
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| Roads |
It started raining by now and we have seen some amazing waterfalls on our way. Some were massive, some were tiny, some were unpleasant, some were sweet, some were docile and some were dangerous. But they were all amazing flowing directly from the glaciers. The water was so pure like snowhite. If you touch them you will freeze.
From Gramfu one road goes to Keylong and then to Ladakh and another road goes to Manali via Rotang Pass. Since we were booked in Keylong so took a turn from Gramfu. Keylong was 51 Km from here.
We covered this road last year also while going to Leh and realized that this year the condition of the road is really bad.
My bladder was full by now and there are no pee points on this road and I was really in a bad shape. We reached Keylong at 15.00 hours and reached our hotel, had Tea and pakoras then rested for a while.
My bladder was full by now and there are no pee points on this road and I was really in a bad shape. We reached Keylong at 15.00 hours and reached our hotel, had Tea and pakoras then rested for a while.
Keylong is like an oasis in the barren and cold of Lahul. Situated at a height of 3350 Meters surrounded from all sides by snow peaked colorful mountain and innumerable glaciers. Keylong is like a paradise.
We stayed in a guest house called Nordling. It was pretty comfortable and nice. In the evening we went to take a short walk and this time it was not so difficult to breath, enough oxygen. The chef from Goa made excellent snacks and food in the evening and Gurmehar was very happy.
Evening spend in the room while chatting and eating. Tomorrow we will cross Rohtang pass which is always an excitement to cross.
Day-11- 26th June, 2012, Keylong to Manali
Travel Time – 2 Hour.(Off season)
6 hours ( In season )
Total Kms – 94 Kms.
Average Altitude (Rohtang Pass) – 13055 Feet
After having our breakfast we started from Keylong at 11.00 hours.
All phone networks were working by now and there was a flood of mails on my blackberry. I hate this part of the vacation when you have to go back after having such a great time and from extreme cold to extreme hot .
The excellent ideas added by Bunty before planning this trip, to cross Rohtang pass on Tuesday. On Tuesday Rohtang pass is closed for maintenance and there is very less traffic from Manali. On normal days Rohtang Pass is open for all tourists and everyday almost 5000 people visit Rohtang pass in this peak season.
After stopping at some exotic places on the way we reached Rohtang pass at 12.30 hours. It started raining by now and the road was not at all visible due to clouds.
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| Road to Rohtang Pass |
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| Rohtang Pass |
Rohtang pass was totally deserted and it was sad to see the condition of the snow. The snow was absolutely black in colur. Gurmehar was very sad to see that as he wanted to play with snow. Fortunately we spotted one small Dhaba were we had Maggi noodles and hot tea. After spending half an hour we planned to go further. After few turns weather was better and road was visible by now.
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| Rohtang Pass |
There are always pros and cons of everything, this saying is so true. Since it was Tuesday, a maintenance day BRO was repairing the road at many places and we got stuck at one halt for more than one hour.
Manali is one of my favourite place but I hate it in summer season. Roads were packed and it was so difficult to reach the hotel. The average time to keylong to Manali is 2 hours but it took us 6 hours to reach our hotel.
The whole of Punjab and Haryana was in Manali for holidays.Thank God!!! Our cottage is a private property (Golden Apple Cottage) and is situated at a very peaceful stretch in Manali. Reached Manali at 17.00 hours and settled at our cottage.
It was so beautiful in the evening. Had a real good time while enjoying the cool breeze.
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| Our Cottage in Manali |
Day-12- 27th June, 2012,
Manali to Chandigarh
Manali to Chandigarh
Travel Time – 8 Hour.
Total Kms – 275 Kms.
Holiday time was over and we were going back to home. it was a nice feeling to go back home but everyone hates going back to that hectic routine.
We planned to leave our cottage at 9.00 hours but we stared at 10.00 hours. Breakfast was so yummy and I was in a mood to stay back for few more days.
Gurmehar is so passionate about river rafting that if you are in Manali you cant miss that. He was looking forward for this from the last two days. Mr. knag as usual escaped from the situation and I had no choice but to go with Gurmehar.
Our dearest friend Naresh was already waiting for us at the rafting point and an exclusive raft was ready for us. What a luxury!!! two of us in the entire raft with three divers. This time the water level was very high and the route was full of rapids. ice melting water which can make you red and blue in seconds. it took us almost 40 mins. to cover the route and we went to higher side for many times
Gurmehar has done swimming also at one spot and many tourists has clicked his picture. Just imagine a 11 yrs old kid swimming in the madly river. It was so much of fun.
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| River rafting |
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| River Rafting |
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| River Rafting |
After the rafting we changed quickly, exchanged goodbye notes with Naresh and rafting team and headed for Chandigarh. Manali till Sundernagar is one of my favorite drives and I always love to admire the beauty of Beas River.
We stopped near Sundernagar for our Lunch and after that I went on the back seat and slept like a log. I got up near Ropar and was feeling damn sleepy again.
Reached home at 19.00 hours and when we stepped out of the car we realized we are back to the real world. It was 44 degrees and damn hot and humid.
I can never forget such an awesome trip and its memories will always stay part of our life forever…
long walks on hills with clouds...Kinner Kailash Range...beauty of Sangla, Chitkul, kalpa Nako and kibber...thrilling roads... adventure...temples and monasteries... excellent weather...peace...nature...stars
and blue sky...mind blowing landscapes... hammering birds...colourful butterflies... glaciers...snow Peak Mountains...fresh flowing rivers…
The quality time you can spend with your family on such road trips is unbeatable…playing, talking, sharing, understanding each other...The list is never ending….
"Embrace the detours...Wherever you go, go with all your heart...Don't tell me how educated you are...tell me how much you have travelled...A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving...When you’re travelling, ask the traveller for advice... Not someone whose lameness keeps him in one place...It is better to travel well than to arrive."
Where to stay?
All types of stay is available as per your pocket size. There are many hotels, Private and PWD guest houses, camp sites and home stay options are available. I suggest you shall book yourself well in advance before heading for a trip.
The list of hotels which I highly recommend-
Sarhaan-
Contact- +911782 274234
Tariff- 2700/- Per night (AP)
Sangla-
Contact- Debashish- 08894610946, 09899926680,
Tariff- 4000/- Per night (MAP)
Contact-Mr. Vijay Negi-01786 242382,094184 40767, 09816528002.
Tariff- 4000-4500/- per night (MAP)
Kapla –
Contact- Tel: 01786-226159.
Tariff- 3200 per night (AP)
Nako-
Contact- Mr. Vijay Negi- 09805841273, 094184 40767, 09816528002
Tariff- 4500/- Per night
Kaza-
Contact- 01906- 222752.
Keylong/Jispa
Nordling Guest House- Keylong
Contact- Mr. Ravi Thankur- 09418625414,0 9418625414, 09418487596, 09418282037, Mr. Rajesh Karpa- 0919816036860
Tariff- IBEX Jispa- 3200 per Night (MAP)
Tariff- Nordling Guest House- 2000 per night (MAP)
Manali-
kanyal Road Gadherani, Manali
Contact- Mr. Ramesh Thakur- 098163-70058, 098162-13581
Tariff- 4500 per night (AP)
Important Information to note:
- Carry a phone charger or Charge the battery of your laptop and camera at all possible chances, Electricity is very irregular at these places.
- Plan your travel between June to October, otherwise Kunjum Pass is closed.
- You can start your travel either from Shimla and end at Manali or the reverse.
- Preferred vehicle should be 4x4 or a vehicle with good ground clearance.
- Carry the basic food items like- cakes, energy bars, biscuits, juices, tea, coffee, Sugar, Dry Milk, Paper Plates, Napkins, Sandwich Spread, Bread, Chips, Match Boxes and mineral water bottles.
- Other Important things you must carry along- Blankets, Pillows, Jerry canes 2X10 liters, Induction, Camera , Laptop, Torch, Cells, Air Pump, Swiss Knife, Lighters, Flask (at least 2), puncture kit, Liquid Soap, Towels, Toilet Roll, Hand Sanitizer, Wet Tissues, Paste, Moisturizer, Cold Cream, Body oil, Sun Screen, Washing Soap, Washing Brush, Shampoo, pair of sport shoes and warm clothes.
- Carry a complete kit of basic medicines like Avil 25 (antihistamic, allergy, nausea, bites) O2 (antibiotic, fluoroquinolone, diarrhea) Norflox-tz (stomach infection) Combiflam (Painkiller) Digene (Acidity, stomach ache) Cyclopam (Stomach ache) Burnol (burns) Gauze (dressing) Diamox (High altitude sickness) Glaucoma (epilepsy) Avomine (nausea) Dolo-650 (fever) Okacet (cold) Althrocin (antibiotic, anti bacterial) Domstal (nausea) Crocin (fever) Relispray (pain spray) Savlon (Cleaning wounds, antiseptic) Soframycin (antibiotic, exposed wound) Adhesive Tape (dressing) Zandu Balm (cough, cold & pain) Vicks Vaporub (cough & cold) Cotton Crepe (Bandage dressing) Neosporin (Antiseptic) Tiger Balm (pain balm) Spirit (for cleaning open wounds) Betadine (for treating open wounds Sparlox (severe cold) Disprin (painkiller) Bandaid (plaster) Cotton Wool (for plugging ears against cold Dressings and Oxygen Cylinders
- Note- You can take these medicines from the chemist on returnable basis. You might not use them.
After exploring Ladakh and Spiti it’s very difficult to decide on our next holiday… the list is long... 2013…definitely another Road trip…..
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| Cya |
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